{Camber Test Jig}

{It's not perfect but it does work.}

Start off by buying the bar you'll need.

I bought 3ft. steel, square tubing, and you can get this at most Home Improvement stores.

1/2 inch is good and make sure it's straight.

Once you've cut the steel bar about 2 - 3 inches longer than the rim you're working with, drill your holes to the exact position of the flat area of your rim or an area that can be utilized with good stability in the contact to the rim with the screws you'll be using.

Drill you holes one side of the bar only, then tap them with a good tap & die set.

I used 1/4 inch threading with 32 thread spacing in stainless steel.

I bought the nuts of the same thread for backing up the screw.

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Here's what it should look like and what type of screw/ nut I used.

Screw the screw all of the way down as you're starting point for adjustment and calibration of this jig.

Once done, place the jig onto a known level area whether it's vertical or horizontal. 

This is the time to pull out that level you have and adjust the screws on one or the other side to calibrate the jig to a perfect level.

Once done, tighten the nuts against the bar to lock the screw.   Remeasure the calibration and continue until it's right.

Once everything is level, locked down, and solid, it's time to try it out.

This is how I do it and so far, it works pretty good.

It's not going to be perfect but will give you some indication of camber of your car.

I plan on making some adjustments to the car with some front, rear camber settings, and this jig will really help me get it going.

I'll have some reviews soon.   I'll update lower on the page.

This is the other way you can do the camber.  

I set my car this way in a more crude fashion but I was able to take an off camber suspension swap to something that works great for not fine tuning it. 

I'll be using both methods of measure to have a better perspective of what I'm going to set.

Reviews coming soon.